The Wizard of Oz at 70: politically relevant and fashionably inspirational

Alberta Ferretti'sMoschino (left) & Oscar de la renta (Right)

It’s been seven decades since L. Frank Baum wrote the popular children’s tale of Dorothy and her gaggle of organ-lacking friends as they follow the yellow brick road up to Emerald City. To celebrate its longevity, Saks is bringing in ruby slipper designs from some of the most notable shoemakers around the world. Jimmy Choo, Manolo Blahnik, Giuseppe Zanotti, and Christian Louboutin, to name just a few, have created bejeweled, heightened, and Swarovski crystal-spangled versions of these red heels, to be on display at Saks from today until September 8th.

Although The Wizard of Oz is often considered a comforting bedtime story, its original purpose was much more serious. The book is a monetary allegory for  Democrat William Jenning’s Bryan’s attempt to inflate the economy with silver in the United States. This phenomenon is brought to musical life in the operetta Ballad of Baby Doe, which I sang with the Augusta Opera while in high school.

Even 70 years after its publishing, The Wizard of Oz  remains culturally relevant. Baum was attacking what he called the “populist fairies” of his time, those who wished to move towards free coinage of silver to make it more accessible to small businesses and farmers.

The parallels break down like this: Dorothy is the idealistic American. The twister that strikes her Kansas home represents the governmental upheaval, as populists had begun taking Kansas by storm. Her canine companion Toto is a play on “teetotaler,” someone who abstains from drinking. He trots “soberly” along with Dorothy, encapsulating the prohibitionist zealots. The scarecrow is the American farmer, who had convinced himself he had no brains as a simple American, beaten down by condescending intellectuals. The Tin Man represents an affluent Atlantic coast worker, dehumanized by the corporate machine, and thus without a heart. Lastly, the Cowardly Lion was Bryan, who did not get involved in the Spanish Civil War, marking him as callow according to his critics. Interestingly, Bryan was described as a lion, the fierce proponent of populism, by his own party. The late Ted Kennedy, lauded for his progressive ideologies, is described as “the liberal lion” by both republicans and democrats alike.

The yellow brick road is, of course, in reference to gold, which leads to the promised land of Emerald City. Oz is the standard politician, whose power is elevated through smoke and mirrors and charismatic oratorical skills. The solution for Dorothy is to click her ruby slippers, which she has had all along. This represents the successful Republican McKinley’s platform to stick with the extant standards, as he did not believe that change brought about from mass governmental reform  on centuries-standing policies was the answer to the problem.

So while The Wizard of Oz may remind us of childhood bedtimes, its implications have been far more resonant. Politically, this book reminds us of the long-standing reputation politicians have as beguiling liars, while the iconic ruby slippers have offered stylish inspiration decades after their introduction. For a more fashion-based take on the awe-inspiring contemporary ruby slippers on display, see the piece I did for my “Fashion Quintessential” column at AskMissA.com.

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Chain, chain, chain

 

Jean-Jacques Rousseau said, “l’homme est né libre et partout il est dans les chaînes”—“Man is born free, and everywhere he is in chains.” Never has this seemed truer than now, even in the fashion world. Earlier I wrote about the cage trend that has been popping up everywhere, which seems to stem from abridged personal freedoms. Basically the chain mail craze told the cage thing: “I’ll see your enclosure and raise you one head shackle.”

On a model who makes Lady Guinevere look like an unglamorous and fat, Alexander McQueen threw on a graphic red dress over a studded-metal bodysuit complete with headwear that allowed for only compromised vision and maybe a little mouth breathing (above).

For a more wearable version, try Roberto Cavalli’s asymmetrical sheath dress, which is as fashion forward as it is dominatrix hot (is that such a thing?). The look is extreme for sure, and looks sleek paired with liquid leggings and absolutely no smiling.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather straps on this Prada get up make it even more intimidating. The model seems to be wearing a hula skirt of cat-o-nine tails, perhaps crafted by a bullied/sexually frustrated/otherwise disgruntled islander.

  

While chains continue to bind us in both clothing-wise and freedoms-wise, it’s hard to say what will be the next iteration of sartorial reactions against a prolonged crusade against our freedoms. In an outfit that could not be more bizarre, Vivienne Westwood paired a faded skirt in dull, faded tones with a completely concealing head-to-hip chain mail contraption. Paired with gladiator sandals, this seems the ultimate culmination of my previous politi-couture theories about gray colors taking over, ruined civilizations trends, and straight-jacketesque appeal to clothing. The model looks like a warrior beekeeper. The only thing missing? The blurred lines between femininity and masculinity. Imagine my surpise upon discover this skirt-donning chain male is indeed a man. Could this be the look of the future?

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A change in structure

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While “change” continues to advance/plague our country’s future, designers are finding ways to keep their couture lines fresh. Who can blame them for their increasingly bizarre designs? The economy is tanking, meaning people will be cutting out luxury items like thousand dollar blouses and runway dresses with a price tag to rival the average family’s mortgage.

As the USD continues to sink in value, many stay-at-home mothers have begun to take up part-time jobs, such as sales representative at Talbots or cashiers at Target, to help keep up the income into the household. Such an occurrence marks a reversal in the traditional “man as breadwinner” role. Now, of course the United States, and countries all over the world, are not unfamiliar with the position of women as main doughmakers, and I am certainly not saying this is anything but extraordinary that women are able to succeed in such a way. However, while women had to balance femininity with aggression to break through the once omni-existent glass ceiling, it seems that the new trend is moving quite lopsidedly toward the aggression side of that dichotomy. Check out the hot new Fall trend of structured shoulders, or, as I call it, shoulderpads-on-crack. In “Mean Girls,” Regina George complains that she cannot wear halters because of her “man shoulders.” This very feature is now in popular demand, and can provide event the smallest frames with butch intimidation.

Probably most people are familiar with Lady MacBeth’s famous line, “unsex me here,” wherein she is trying to shed her feminine qualities of sensitivity and meekness so that she can commit regicide. Although an extreme instance, women seem to be moving away from their feminine short skirts and slender frames and towards highly structured suit jackets and all forms of menswear. So if you’re considering buying into the trend that was last popularized by the monocle-wearing court attendant in “Cinderella,” perhaps avoid the impending doom of your femininity and save your money. Maybe you can cut out early from your next shift at Ann Taylor.

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Cage rage

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I’m definitely a champion of “fashion follows culture,” and it seems that the proof is in the sartorial pudding as we move towards more authoritarian rule taking over our options for health care, raising taxes and not letting us keep the money we earn, and myriad other examples of government creeping into our lives. If you’re beginning to feel completely walled-in by government-sponsored laws, bills, and mandates, perhaps you will relate to the newest cage theme that has hit the runways. Check out the explosion of cage accessories, like Yves Saint Laurent’s belt with which the voluptuous pre-blond Kim Kardashian encircled herself.  YSL (well, specifically, Stefano Pilati for YSL) does in fact seem to be quite a pioneer with the cage trends, which he debuted earlier this year on the runway. Here’s a nice sampling of the cage shoes he’s inspired (please someone tell me the mesh Uggs are a joke):

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This is in stark contrast to, for example, the 90s, which valued minimalism. Little Black Dresses were actually just that, with no strange exposed zippers, structured shoulder pads, or weird legging accompaniments. Even the grunge look, in its disgusting vie for anti-establishment fashion, was low-maintenance. Crop tops ruled the closet of tweens everywhere, and became an acceptable means for adolescents to expose their torsos. Now, on the other hand, clothing that covers more, like longer shirts or skirts, or taller boots, or even higher gladiator sandals, convey the sense of conservativism. Of course, poking holes into garments somewhat defeats such modesty, but “sex sells” is quite the timeless adage.

Designers have even begun to lash out with more extreme cage representations, such as exposed hoop skirts, which are basically comprised of the wire framework of Scarlet O’Hara’s go-to party outfit, and full-on cage-inspired frocks. Jean-Paul Gaultier whipped up this futuristic look, which involves some intense headwear. I can’t wait see this on Big Bird’s fiancee at their destination wedding in Iceland:

  

Comme des Garcons put out a slightly more wearable version of the cage dress, which looks like the love child of an apron and a nautical themed beach cover-up.

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While these cage fashions are certainly innovative, is this really the direction in which we want to be moving? Increasingly restraining garments, and, politically speaking, increasingly limited freedoms? If even the models, who are payed to look effortless and graceful, look uncomfy in their cage creations, there’s no way the average citizen could throw this on to grab a cup of four dollar coffee.

 Robert Frost’s oft-quoted poem “Mending Wall” may be familiar to most people in terms of its deceptively simple line, “Good fences make good neighbors.”  However, to accept this trite phrase as a synopsis of the iconic poem would be to greatly undervalue the its message. “Mending Wall” describes building relationships with one’s neighbor during the yearly duty of restoring the fence between two homes, which inevitably results in communication and camaraderie between the two menders. Of course some isolationism is necessary to delineate boundaries between different parties or people, as fences in this sense offer the feeling of ownership and individualism. However, with the entry of cages onto the fashion scene, it seems the only function of these bondage-inspired embellishments is to confine and restrict. It’s almost like willingly putting jail bars on your body. This fashionista is getting restive just thinking about it.

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Fashion Apocalypse

Our current economic climate, in addition to plenty of other apocalyptic governmental issues like an insanely rushed schedule to pass Obamacare and green party warnings of environmental Armageddon (and plenty of other doomsday situations) have begun to take their toll on fashion. It’s well documented that fashion is a gauge of the financial state of affairs—the 1920s were “The Roaring Twenties” because of economic boom post-WWI, while skirt hemlines have risen in commensurate with Dow Jones volumes. But as we enter into a greater recession than ever (ever!) before, it looks like American fashion is beginning to take on a whole new level of damning social climate parallelism.

Rewind to the earlier 2000s, when the market was doing much better and taxes were, ahem, stabilized, no one knew what a “stimulus package” was, much less a “second stimulus package,” and people were allowed to drive their Hummers without judgment. Asians styles were all the rage: mandarin collars were being passed off down the runway in unprecedented numbers (see Dior fashion show from 2007), Louis Vuitton had begun using more Asian models and even added the exotic Calla lily to his signature monogram handbags, and chintz, satin embossed fabrics were everywhere. The compendium of Asian empires is still holding strong today: most markets (that is, the capitalist ones) are holding.

Now let’s take a look at today’s fashions. With GDP dropping lower than ever since records of GDP were taken, and the dollar losing its once almighty value, designers are finding inspiration from other sources. There are gladiator sandals aplenty, native and tribal designs that are more warrior than pampered consumer, and now the Egyptian look is coming back onto the scene, with Christian Siriano finding inspiration from the country’s landscape for his Winter 2009 collection. Problematically, there seems to be one uniting link between Greek, Incan (and other South American tribes), and Egyptian cultures: they were all once at the zenith of the world’s power scope, only to come crashing down. It’s interesting that kohl-rimmed eyes, which have always been so popular for winter months, exploded onto the scene in a surreal juxtaposition with Spring’s usual florals. Louis Vuitton has ditched its standard typefont for a more chaotic style. Togas and gladiator shoes had a slow start in 2002, when they first stepped onto the scene, but have only recently overflowed into mass production discount stores. Could we be sensing the setting sun on our once seemingly limitless hegemony?

Of course these fashions are worn all around the world, and not just the US. But with clothing being cheapest to buy in the US, designers know derivative versions of their runway styles will trickle into places like Forever 21 and H&M. It’s certainly something to think about. To add to your sartorial musings, check out this excerpt from W.B. Yeats’ “The Circus Animal’s Desertion,” which focuses on the poet’s inability to gain inspiration. It was one of the last poems he wrote before his death after a career of poetry made notable because of its concerns with the fall of the Irish empire, as well as other institutions (see “The Second Coming” and “Sailing to Byzantium,” from which “No Country for Old Men” draws its title). “The Circus Animal’s Desertion” is particularly interesting in this context as a high-end designer denim company, Rag and Bone, decided to pull its moniker from this arcane bit of literature (emphasis added):
A mound of refuse or the sweepings of a street,
Old kettles, old bottles, and a broken can,
Old iron, old bones, old rags, that raving slut
Who keeps the till. Now that my ladder’s gone,
I must lie down where all the ladders start
In the foul rag and bone shop of the heart.

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See-through styles a hit

Halle Berry

We all know some things are better left to the imagination, but for many celebrities, those “things” are being concealed by increasingly scant clothing. Interestingly, a resurgence in transparent “illusion” clothing, which saw an earlier heyday at the beginning of the millennium with “floating” necklaces constructed of fishing wire and gowns like Halle Berry’s iconic 2002 Oscar Boudreaux colored Elie Saab, has resulted in increased demand for more and more daring get ups.

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While transparent clothing is definitely avant garde, this look can go quickly from trendy to tawdry. For example, check out Leighton Meester’s interpretation of illusion clothing. While the Gossip Girl actress has an undeniably awesome body, who on earth told her that a dress featuring a glorified thong and sheer butt panels was in any way appropriate to wear to the MTV Movie Awards, an event that targets pre teens and, therefore, pretty much everyone that is too young to wear anything so sultry? While Meester garnered plenty of media attention, it’s definitely concerning that this meretricious outfit better suited for the bedroom is being labeled as “fashion forward.” This also seems the case with WAG Cheryl Cole, who decided to celebrate her birthday in a very odd, completely NSFW fringed miniskirted sleeveless number that would have been more appropriate for a figure skating event that might be called “Tarts on Ice” or some Vegas show.

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There are some ways to work in this transparent look and not appear tasteless, however. Transformers vixen Megan Fox showed up to the David Letterman show in a classic knee length black dress that featured just a touch of illusion netting at the neckline, keeping her look age appropriate for this 23-year-old. Demure heels and a retro glam hairstyle also tone down this very sexy look.

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While illusion clothing is very popular for formal events, some celebrities have taken this look in another direction, like Fergie’s edgy rocker ensemble, which uses gauzy, nude colored panes and incorporates them into an otherwise almost prim blouse. Paired with a tasteful miniskirt and some medieval bracelets with serious hardware, the overall effect is fashionable, but doesn’t veer into tacky.

So while diaphanous clothing is a hot trend right now, it’s a very, very thin line between au courant and offensive. This is definitely a look to try out, but just remember to keep sheer pieces as an embellishment, not as the basis of your outfit. You’re going for an illusion, not an exhibiton. 

As written for AskMissA.com.

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Fedoras make a comeback for salaries of all sizes


Ashlee Simpson looking fedora-ble in this beachy one

In the wake of our economic slump, we’re all looking for a romantic escape. Enter the fedora, perhaps the most stable investment you can make right now. While channeling your inner Carmen Sandiego, you can travel anywhere from a safari to the tropics without the fuss (and fare) of flights or hotels.

While many believe fedoras belong in a man’s wardrobe, the term “fedora” is based off the title of a Victorien Sardou play written in the 1880s, wherein the female lead wears these funky, pinched-sided hats.

Every woman loves a man in his Sunday best, so guys, try this look out for a formal weekend brunch with slacks and a wool coat. For the summertime, women look fabulous in beachy sandals and a pastel dress for an unexpected, yet sexy, fashion statement. If you can already feel your teen-aged child rolling his or her eyes at your salute to this historical hat, offer them the 21st century fedora, which features a shorter brim and cool textures like exaggerated herringbone and pinstripes.

For those with job security, check out Proper Topper, an adorable boutique, for high-end headwear and killer fedoras in the most luxurious fabrics. For those with a little less disposable income, bargain department stores like TJ Maxx and Marshalls always have a surprisingly large selection of colored fedoras. Either way, fedoras promise to be a worthy asset, with the flexibility of functioning as either formalwear or casual beach gear.

As written for Examiner.com.

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